We are working our way into the third installment of a four-part series in the subject of training your own dog.
We started with owner commitments and expectations and moved into how easy it is to get your dog to go for a relaxing walk with you or another member of your family.
Today we start with the most basic command of “sit.” You can do “sit” first and “heel” second, but all of them need to be mastered in order to set the foundation for more advanced training.
“Sit” to me is misunderstood by many dog owners. They think if a dog sits when told, they have mastered all that is required. This is far from the truth. When you command a dog to sit, it means sit until I tell you to do something else or release them from the command with the release word OK.
There is really no reason to use the command “stay” if they have a complete understanding of the command “sit.” Using the same leash and slip chain collar as before, you give the command “sit” and then give the leash an upward jerk and repeat the “sit” command. A movement by the handler in the up direction fits with the understanding that when the dog’s head moves upward, it tends to make the butt end of the dog go downward.
So, you intermingle the “heel” and “sit” commands. As the dog gets better, you don’t necessarily need to give the leash a jerk every time. A “sit” or “heel” command with no correction is called a freebie. You utilize the leash jerk with freebies in a non-rhythm cadence. If you give three freebies and then one jerk and repeat this over and over, the dog will start to anticipate the correction and might start sitting when no command is given.
When “sit” is well understood, you will need to replace the 4-foot leash with a 30-foot check cord or rope. Give the command “sit” and then start to walk away. If the dog breaks and follows you, say “no” firmly and return the dog to where it was, give the rope an upward jerk, and repeat the “sit” command.
When you can give the “sit” command as you walk away and the dog stays in place, you are getting somewhere. Let the rope slip through your hands until you are 30 feet away. Walk in a circle around the dog, repeating the “sit” command. I know I have a dog with a complete understanding when I can circle around the dog two or three times and the dog does not move. Advance this even further, but gently pulling on the rope while reminding the dog with the “sit” command. You will ultimately get to a point where you can pull on the rope hard enough that the dog’s butt will come off the ground and they will still not move. Release the dog with the word OK.
We will use this same effort on the “here” command. Have the dog sit and walk to the end of the 30-foot rope. Command the dog with a “here” command and give the leash a jerk. When they get about 10 feet from you, you can then give the “heel” command. A dog can only be expected to do one thing at a time. You cannot and should not command the dog with “here,” immediately followed by a heel command and then immediately followed up by a sit command.
Allow the dog to complete one task and then instruct them on the next command. Call the dog “here,” and when it is about 10 feet from you, give the “heel” command. When the dog has reached “heel,” then – and only then – give them the “sit” command.
I said in an earlier column that a dog is not an electronic device like a computer keyboard. You cannot expect them to execute three or four commands at one time and then expect them to execute them all in order.
When working on the “here” command, we also utilize freebies with no cadence. Command “here,” and then give the rope a stiff tug. When the dog has complied, then move away and command “here” without a correction. Mix both a freebie and a rope jerk with no rhythm so the dog does not start to anticipate and either move or sit with no command given by you. This is an important recommendation when training your own dog.
Each session should last no more than 15 minutes. Each session should start out with 2 minutes of fun and end each session with two minutes of fun. As the dog gets better and better, they are still getting a correction occasionally from a jerk on the rope or leash even when they are doing everything right. This is a necessary step if you want sponge bucket obedience and not post it note obedience.
By keeping the sessions short and ending each session with a little fun, you keep the attitude of the dog high, and training sessions are looked forward to instead of dreaded.
Part 4 will be the introduction to the whistle and electronic training collars. Stay tuned
Scott Rall, Worthington, is a habitat conservationist, avid hunting and fishing enthusiast and is president of Nobles County Pheasants Forever. He can be reached at scottarall@gmail.com. or on Twitter @habitat champion.