I haven’t been submitting any garden articles for the paper for a year because I thought I had all of you educated enough so I could retire.
Someone recently reminded me that we are humans and we forget … “so what’s wrong with refreshing our memories?”
Well, that’s not a hard task for me, so here goes. …
We have survived winter, and if there is one good thing about extreme cold (other than higher profit for the power companies), I am hoping the emerald ash borer population took a beating!
It is March and it is spring so now is the perfect time to prune trees.
Remember that removing low branches when they are small leaves a much smaller wound that will heal quickly. It amazes me how we duck under low branches while we are mowing without considering eliminating those obstacles before they take the skin off the top of your head.
The great thing about pruning now is that you can see what you are doing without interference of the leaves.
Maple trees can be pruned without damage although they will “bleed” sap from the wound. Prior to the leaf buds opening, there is internal pressure in the xylem layer under the bark. That is the reason sugar maples are “tapped” to make maple syrup. Once the leaf buds open, the pressure is relieved and the bleeding stops.
Fruit trees benefit from annual pruning: the tree shape and size is determined, the fruit quality is improved, and the long-term health of the tree is assured.
Apple trees produce flower buds from a spur. If there is an apple on the spur this year, there will not be one next year. Thus, some trees produce a huge crop of apples overloading the tree one year and none the next.
Other varieties are naturally self-thinning; therefore there are apples every year. Thinning the tree will help limit the quantity of fruit preventing branch breakage.
Considering which branches to remove, look for stems that are rubbing against each other. Also, eliminate branches that grow toward the center of the tree. When shortening a branch, make the cut just above and outward facing bud. The resulting new branch will grow outward, opening the canopy of the tree.
I like to limit the height of the tree as well. The best apples are always at top, so the top should be within reach, whatever that height is for you.
I know that seed packets have appeared in stores and we can’t wait to get planting. Let me remind you that planning before planting is necessary. Yes, buy the seed now so you get them while you can.
For plants that benefit from an early start, suggested sowing date is 6 to 8 weeks before the estimated last frost date. For us, that is usually just after mid May. If you do the math, you will realize that we are still too early.
Given the fact that outdoor temps drop at night and our home thermostats don’t allow that coupled with less available sunlight, seedlings that get growing too early often “stretch” for the afore-mentioned reasons and those spindly stems have one heck of a time acclimating to the beating they take when planted in the garden.
A couple of weeks here makes a huge difference in success later.